At the moment I wish to give some fundamental tips on how one can install drywall, otherwise generally known as sheet rock. It is available in varied thicknesses, and each type of drywall has it is own applications and makes use of, but first let’s get our surfaces ready.
1. PREPARATION. I like to recommend putting in drywall directly to the wall studs or ceiling joists. Some contractors and helpful men just set up new drywall over the old ones, or paneling, or lath wall. This is a poor installation method as a result of the fact that the new drywall cannot be securely mounted because of screws lacking the studs, unknown electrical or plumbing lines behind the old wall, etc. After I see these installations, I usually attribute it to laziness, they did not cost sufficient to remove the old drywall, so on and so forth. There will be moisture, leakage, or termite points going on behind these partitions, so remove everything to the bare studs. Check the insulation ( if any ), the situations of the studs, and plumbing and electrical lines ( if any ). If everything is nice, check to make sure the studs have all nails and screws removed, and is mostly smooth and plumb( check plumb by using a 6 ft. level.)
2. WALL INSTALLATION. Begin by measuring the size and height of the wall to be covered. Set up the drywall with the 8 ft. length horizontal to the studs, if the studs are 16″ heart the drywall ought to line as much as 7 of the studs with the last stud on center. continue putting in, measuring and slicing the last piece. To begin the subsequent row, install a full drywall sheet atop the row you just completed, to create a staggered effect, making sure they line as much as the studs correctly. THE KEY TO A GOOD DRYWALL INSTALLATION IS TO STAGGER THE SHEETS. If the drywall seams line up in a “cross” sample, this creates a weak point within the installation, and can be susceptible to crumbling.
3. CEILING INSTALLATION. Putting in drywall on ceilings is more tough than walls, typically it requires people working together. If you’re working by your self, it’s a good idea to rent a drywall lift for this project, working overhead wears your arms out sooner and the lift is an amazing help. Or you possibly can assemble what is understood within the trades as a “dead man”, which is basically two by 4 lumber screwed together to hold up the drywall while it is being screwed. make sure the joists are uncovered and all nails and screws removed. measure and install full sheets, staggering them as you move along. Measure and mark cuts for lighting and some other ceiling fixtures. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER TO STAGGER THE SHEETS, ESPECIALLY FOR CEILINGS. Failure to do so will lead to sagging ceilings, as gravity pulls on the weak points. you would need to consistently plaster the weak spots, however finally the ceiling would fall down, or have to be taken down.
4. TIPS ON PLASTERING. For wall joints I favor to make use of the perforated drywall tape, on corners and where the ceilings meet the walls I choose to use the standard drywall tape. Using a small plaster knife (four inch) tape all your joints, embedding the tape as you go, smoothing out any bubbles. Let it dry thoroughly, then lightly sand smooth. Utilizing a wider plaster knife (7 inch) plaster all seams again, letting it dry thoroughly. Sand lightly. for the final coat, use a slightly larger plaster knife (10 inch) and plaster all seams once more, let it dry and sand it to get it ready for primer and paint. Most contractors use a minimum of 3 plaster coats on drywall, which is what I additionally recommend.
5. RECOMMENDATIONS. For partitions, use 1/2″ drywall or thicker, for ceilings use three/eight” drywall ( except in kitchens and baths, the place it is best to use half of” moisture resistant drywall), for wood wall studs use 1 1/four” coarse drywall screws, for metal wall studs use 1 1/four” tremendous thread drywall screws, I don’t advocate drywall nails, they tend to come back loose, resulting in “pop outs”. For ceilings use 1 1/2″ to 1 3/four” coarse screws. Ensure to make use of fire-rated drywall in basements, and moisture-resistant drywall in kitchens and baths, Double check the building codes in your area to confirm the proper types and thicknesses. Use the following tips as a guideline in your drywall set up, and you need to have glorious results.
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